Article Overview: Grinnell Glacier Hike in Glacier National Park
I’m not being dramatic when I tell you it’s worth planning a Grinnell Glacier hike in Glacier National Park, Montana, before the glaciers are gone. The best science today says that the glaciers will melt by the end of this century. Some say it could be as early as 2030.
While there’s a much larger climate change impact on glaciers discussion to be had, there’s photo proof that Grinnell Glacier is one of many shrinking with each passing generation. This article isn’t about the climate change debate. It’s about seizing the moment while it’s here.
As I learned the hard way, there’s also a small window of opportunity each summer to take the Grinnell Glacier hike, as you’re at the mercy of the previous winter and the avalanche risk.
Grinnell Glacier Hike
Table of Contents: Grinnell Glacier Hike
Table of contents: Grinnell Glacier Hike
Things to Know Before You Visit Glacier National Park
Entrance Fees
$35 per vehicle between May 1 and October 31, $25 per vehicle between November 1 and April 30 OR if you plan to visit more National Parks within the next 12 months, I suggest you go ahead and purchase the America the Beautiful Pass (which can be found at the entrance gates to most national parks). This pass gets you into all National Parks, Forests, Monuments, and more, including 2,000 sites for free after a one-time $80 fee.
Sunscreen
Use it. Lots of it. Especially this one, which I never leave the house without because it plays nice with our dear friend, Earth 🙂
Insect Repellent
If you’re looking for a good insect repellent that plays nice with our good friend Earth, we recommend this one or this one if you’re a DEET person.
Guide Book
The Best Guide Book for Glacier National Park is this one which we’ve marked up and highlighted quite a bit.
Map
The Best Map: I like this map best for Glacier National Park.
National Parks Checklist Map: This beautiful National Parks Checklist Map can be ordered to your house.
Framed National Parks Map: We’re a sucker for maps; this framed national parks map is the best.
Where to Stay in Glacier National Park
Where to Stay: This is our favorite hotel in Glacier National Park for the Grinnell Glacier hike, as it’s closest to the trailhead.
Getting Into Glacier National Park
You need more than just the park entrance pass to take the Grinnell Glacier hike. Vehicle reservations are required for timed entry into four sections of the park during certain times of the year and hours of the day, including:
- North Fork
- Two Medicine
- Many Glacier
- Going-to-the-Sun Road Corridor
Those heading to Grinnell need the Many Glacier Vehicle Reservation from July 1 through September 30 between the hours of 6:00 a.m. and 3:00 p.m. Outside of those hours, you can enter without a reservation.
Two opportunities to book vehicle reservations are available. The first is a four-month advance reservation, and the other is a 24-hour notice reservation. All reservations will be made through Recreation.gov.
NOTE: If you have a reservation for a hotel or guided tour, you won’t have to pay the vehicle registration fee.
I’ve taken so many hikes that should’ve made me anxious, but I was always overwhelmed with parking anxiety. Grinnell Glacier’s parking area is one that you should be anxious about, too. Just because you have a reservation doesn’t mean you’ll get a parking spot. Arrive early, book a guided tour, or stay at one of the nearby hotels so you know you’ll get access to the trailhead.
Grinnell Glacier Hike Tour Options
The hike to Grinnell Glacier passes two lakes and several strenuous spots, so we want to give you all the options to make the most out of this hike. If you go on foot only, the trail is as long as 10-12 miles roundtrip.
Boat Tours
Boat tours and rides can cut off the first 3.4 miles of the trail, which follows the flat land along Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine. Walking the trail is free with park admission, but the boat rides through Glacier Park Boats will cost extra and reservations are strongly recommended. Most determined hikers will opt for express boat shuttles to get to the next leg of the trail.
If you have a boat reservation for the return hike, be sure to make it to the dock on time. If you don’t, the boat won’t wait for you, and you’ll have to walk back the rest of the way.
Guided Tours
You can also choose to take a guided tour with an expert leading the way. Please note that guided hikes to Grinnell Lake are not necessarily the same as a hike to Grinnell Glacier on Upper Grinnell Lake. You can also customize your own hike without having to go with a group of people outside your own party.
The Grinnell Glacier Hike: Step-by-Step Guide
Elevation: 4,900 feet at trailhead to 6,150 feet at summit
Length: 10.6 miles
Time: 8-10 hours, depending on how long you stop and explore the glacier or at views along the way.
I am literally the worst about hiking in a rush to get to the pinnacle view. This is one trail where I couldn’t stop myself from soaking in the views. Be prepared for a longer hike because of the immersive experience.
The beauty of Glacier National Park is that at the peak of summer, the sun is up at 5:30 a.m. and doesn’t set until 9:40 p.m.
From the Trailhead Past the Lakes
The trail starts near the Many Glacier Ranger Station. The trail hugs the shore of the aforementioned lakes for the first three miles or so. This part is relatively flat and will make you question why anyone said this could be a moderate or strenuous hike. That will soon change.
Summer visitors will notice this part of the trail is lush. That brings two concerns—ticks and bears. Just keep talking to let the bears know you are there and stay on the trail and/or boardwalk to avoid contact with the leaves where ticks wait to attach.
The Up Hill Hike to the Big Switchback
After you’re past Lake Josephine, the trail reveals its true strenuous self. With a total incline of nearly 2,100 feet, it’s time to see some of the most stunning sites in the state of Montana. To your left, you’ll see the turquoise blue lakes below as the sharp drops grow steeper.
You’ll hug the side of a mountain with trails that can be as wide as a sidewalk or as narrow as just a few footprints. This is also a rocky path with loose rocks below you and water trickling out of the side of the rock face as you go. Watch your steps carefully, as there is no guardrail.
About a mile from Lake Josephine, you’ll come to the one and only major switchback of the trail. This is where the trail will be closed if there is an avalanche danger.
Big Switchback to Final Ascent
I took a lot with me on this Grinnell Glacier hike, and I don’t mean the stuff in my backpack. My emotional baggage had been wearing me down with stress and burnout. I swear this trail made me feel so at peace with the universe as every step seemed to slough off the emotional rot and bring me a higher sense of self and my place in the world.
As you hike, you see the same dazed look on everyone else’s face. It’s transcendent here on this exhaustive path that seems to replace the energy you’re burning immediately. The trail widens and narrows, giving plenty of places to stop and take photos, meditate, or just… be.
You’ll eventually come to the Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area, where the last pit toilet of the trail is located. By now, you see Grinnell Glacier in front of you on the trail, but there’s a big climb to get to the mother-of-all-views.
The Final Steps to Upper Grinnell Lake
You’ll burn your calves taking the final steps (some literal, some figurative) until you reach a flat overlook with Upper Grinnell Lake in front of you. Walk down to the side of the lake where the rocks, water, and cascades meet.
The trail is relatively safe until you reach a sign warning you about the dangers of going further. Of course, going further means actually going to Grinnell Glacier. Few people will stop at the sign, but there’s nothing wrong if you choose to stop there.
The Grinnell Glacier
As you get closer to the glacier, you can’t trust anything you are standing on. It’s nearly impossible to tell if you’re on bedrock, floating rock, or ice with a rocky appearance on top.
Walking on the glacier is downright dangerous. Thin layers of snow can cover the hidden crevasses. One step, and you could plunge right in.
The glacier itself looks like a behemoth, and it’s hard to imagine how much it has shrunk during the past 175 years. In 1850, the glacier was 710 acres. It’s now 115 acres. Between 1966 and 2015, Grinnell Glacier was reduced in size by 45%.
Check out the “Then & Now” photos on the Glacier National Park website to get great visuals of the shrinkage.
The Return Hike
This is an out-and-back trail, so you’ll take the same route to get back with the benefit of going downhill during the return trip. Do not rush this part, as different sections of the trail will be wet or slippery from the wear and tear of the day.
Grinnell Glacier is one of the most popular hikes in the park, so expect crowds. Those dreams of having the trail to yourself aren’t realistic on an average July or August day.
Map of Grinnell Glacier Hike
Grinnell Glacier Hike FAQs
The color is from the way the water absorbs the spectrum of light. Glaciers bulldoze the rocks into fine powder, which makes its way to the water by melting snow. The slow-to-sink rock particles absorb the indigo colors while water soaks in the longer wavelengths of red, orange, and yellow. That leaves the beautiful blue and green mixtures to shine.
Glacier has up to 1,000 bears, both grizzly and black bears. Regardless of bear type, you should always make noise and talk to the bears. Most people will shout, “HEY, BEAR!” as they hike.
You should carry bear spray with you at all times, and if you are also visiting Canada during your trip to Glacier National Park, make sure you bring USEPA-approved bear spray. Otherwise, you might get it confiscated at the border.
Snow and ice will (obviously) be present throughout the year, so I don’t head to this park without crampons to help with slick spots. An ice pick and walking sticks are great ideas to navigate the more dangerous spots of this trail.
You should also carry an avalanche beacon, probe, and shovel, especially when we know Grinnell Glacier’s trail is in prime avalanche territory for part of the year.
No. The water can have bacteria and cause terrible illnesses like Giardia. The only potable water on the trail is at the trailhead. You can bring water filtration tools to clean water along the way, but you should start with a gallon of your own water.
I planned to make it in eight hours since I’m a “rusher,” but I ended up taking 12 hours because I stopped so often to have an existential crisis. The beauty of Glacier National Park is that at the peak of summer, the sun is up at 5:30 a.m. and doesn’t set until 9:40 p.m.
The Name Behind the Grinnell Glacier Hike
The glacier gets its name from George Bird Grinnell (1849-1938), the editor of Forest & Stream magazine. (It’s now known as Field & Stream.) Grinnell came to the area we know as Glacier National Park in 1885 and fought vigorously for Glacier National Park to be created. Records show his first steps on what would become Grinnell Glacier was in 1887.
Grinnell Glacier Hike Summary
Glacier National Park is called the “Crown of the Continent” for good reason. It’s just an endless experience of overwhelming and emotional views. I’ll admit that I cried a few times on the trail just from sheer beauty.
As much as this hike is moderate to strenuous, be it in distance or elevation, I never once had a “this is too much, we have to go back” moment. You’ll face a slight fear of heights and walk on wobbly spots, but you won’t regret a hike that makes you feel so connected to the earth and a place where earth, water (frozen or not), fire, and air collide so flawlessly.
Go before it’s gone.
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