Waterlemon Cay, St. John: Snorkeling Guide & Current Safety

Waterlemon Cay is the snorkel most people fly to St. John for, whether they know it yet or not. The small green island sits in the middle of a healthy coral reef, ringed by sand and the kind of clear turquoise water that makes you forget you packed a return ticket. It is also one of the most photographed points in Virgin Islands National Park, and after swimming its perimeter twice in one morning, I understand why.

It is not, however, a wade-in-from-the-sand beach. Getting to the cay takes a flat coastal hike and then a real open-water swim, and the currents around the island deserve respect. Here is how to do it well.

Getting to St. John, Then to Waterlemon Cay

You reach St. John by ferry from St. Thomas. Fly into Cyril E. King Airport (STT), then catch the passenger ferry from Red Hook to Cruz Bay, which runs about every hour and costs roughly $13 per adult each way as of 2026. The ride takes about 20 minutes. From Cruz Bay, a rental vehicle is the practical way to get around the north shore.

Waterlemon Cay is about a 20-minute drive from Cruz Bay. Park at the Annaberg Plantation lot, which the trail shares. From there you walk the Leinster Bay Trail along the water to reach the snorkel entry point.

The Leinster Bay Trail

The Leinster Bay Trail is a flat, easy coastal path that starts near the Annaberg Ruins and runs along the shoreline with the aqua water of Leinster Bay beside you the whole way. It is about 0.8 miles each way, mostly level, and shaded in stretches. At the far end the trail meets the Johnny Horn Trail; a short continuation brings you to the small rocky beach and ruins across from the cay.

From that beach it is roughly a 10-minute swim out to Waterlemon Cay. Some people prefer to follow the shoreline path a bit farther and enter the water closer to the island to shorten the open-water crossing. Either way, you will be swimming in open water, so plan accordingly.

Snorkeling Waterlemon Cay, and the Current You Need to Respect

This is the best snorkel on St. John, full stop. In the seagrass beds between the beach and the cay you are likely to see green sea turtles, rays, conch, and big starfish. Along the reef that rings the island you will find brain coral, purple sea fans, and clouds of fish, including blue tangs, parrotfish, and the occasional reef shark cruising through. Circling the cay clockwise is the classic route.

The honest caveat: the current around Waterlemon Cay can be strong, especially on the far, western side of the island where you are most exposed. It runs stronger around the new and full moons. Before you swim out, look at the water in Leinster Bay. If you see whitecaps, it is windy and the current at the cay will likely be working against you. On those days, stay near shore or skip the crossing.

• Wear fins. The swim out plus a lap around the cay is more distance than it looks, and fins give you control if the current picks up.
• Snorkel in the morning. The water is calmer, the light is better, and the boat traffic is lighter.
• Go around the protected side first and read the conditions before committing to the exposed western edge.
• If you are not a confident open-water swimmer, the beach and viewpoint alone are worth the hike. You do not have to make the crossing.

One non-negotiable: green sea turtles are protected under the Endangered Species Act, and touching one is a federal crime. They are used to snorkelers and will keep grazing if you hold your distance. Admire, photograph, and leave them alone.

Best Time to Visit

Morning is the answer for nearly everything here. The water tends to be calmest early, which matters for the swim, and the light sweeping across the hills makes the bay glow for photographers. By afternoon the trade winds build, the surface gets choppier, and the glare off the water makes good photos harder. If you want the cay close to yourself, be on the trail not long after sunrise.

Know Before You Go

• Getting there: Ferry from St. Thomas (Red Hook to Cruz Bay, about $13 per adult each way in 2026), then a 20-minute drive to the Annaberg lot.
• Trail: Leinster Bay Trail, about 0.8 miles each way, flat and easy.
• Swim: Roughly 10 minutes of open water to reach the cay. Fins recommended.
• Currents: Can be strong on the western side, stronger near full and new moons. Check for whitecaps before swimming out.
• Fees: No general park entrance fee and no amenity fee here.
• Facilities: None at the trailhead beyond the Annaberg site. Bring water, sun protection, and your own snorkel gear and fins.
• Time needed: Two to three hours for the hike, snorkel, and walk back.

Plan the Rest of Your St. John Trip

Waterlemon Cay pairs naturally with the nearby Annaberg Ruins and the beaches of the north shore like Maho Bay and Francis Bay. For the full park, with maps, history, and every site we have covered, start at our Virgin Islands National Park guide, then browse things to do in the park.